Manufacturing/Weaving Process Carpet manufacturing is a low technology fragmented and predominantly labour intensive one. This art was learned and transferred from one generation to the next. The finest carpets of Kashmir are made of silk warp and pile; this allows higher count of knots per inch that brings in a higher resolution of the pattern and demands for deft weavers who can achieve this. For patterns with low resolution the warp is made of cotton and the pile is knotted with silk or wool.

The size of the carpet is determined at the beginning and usually comes in the sizes (in feet): 2x3, 2.5x4, 3x5, 4x6, 6x9, 7x10, 8x10, 9x12, 10x14, and 12x18. Then a design is chosen with its colour scheme. The designs are made by designers known as Naqashi who draws out the design on a square grid of graph paper where each square is divided into 25 sub units, each representing one knot and corresponding colors marked on the design. Then a Wasta or Talim Guru prepares the Talim from the graph paper into rolls of written codes, which translate into a sequence of colored symbols for each knot. These strips of coded colors are called Talim. There are as many as 200 to 800 strips or more depending on the size, motifs and colors used in one particular design. Nowadays, the Naqashsi also uses computer software to prepare designs and the Talim.

Raw materials are chosen as per the requirement, design and colour scheme. The raw materials are then dyed as per the colour scheme. The dyeing of raw materials is delicate and cumbersome process. The dyeing is mostly done by traditional skilled dyers. Earlier natural dyes were used, however with changing business environment, chemical dyes are used.

The loom commonly used in Kashmir carpet weaving is composed of two horizontal wooden beams, between which the wrap threads are stretched, one beam in front of the weaver and the second behind the first. Now with the emergence of modern steel looms, the looms are much more comfortable and weavers sit on benches than on the floor. The warp is mounted on the upper beam and the woven (hand knotted) fabric wound to the lower beam. The warp is usually cotton, except for silk on Silk carpets where it is high quality silk. The warp/base should be 90 degrees, a straight line; otherwise the whole carpet will be misaligned.

A group of weavers on traditional loom sit with their knees up facing the loom correctly in their positions and on modern looms, they sit on the benches. The difference between a carpet and other hand woven rugs lies in the fact that short lengths of the thread or yarn are tied to warp chains to form the pile of the carpet. These are commonly called knots though it is a loop rather than an actual knot. The basic fabric of the carpet is woven by tying rows of knots between adjacent warp threads. The weaver ties his/her knots with great dexterity with silk threads on upright wooden or steel looms (which gives a nap to the pile of the carpet). Warp weaves vertically and forms the base of the carpet, weft weaves horizontally and knotting forms the intricate design on the carpet. The master weaver leads them with design script known locally as Talim- the pattern chart that plots the number of knots to be woven in the same colour. The colours and numbers of knots to be woven are indicated by signs. The steps carry on as the master weaver chants the Talim and winds the warp around the loom. The other weavers chant the reply after carrying out the instructions. Weaving by Talim technique is more accurate and fault free as compared to weaving through the graphic method. The fineness of the carpet is judged by the number of knots per square inch area, the design, the colors and the quality of the yarn. The number of knots per square inch count is exactly like resolution of a photograph, the more the knots count the finer the picture. The firmness, thickness and the sharp appearance of the back of the carpets are important considerations. As a waar (layer) is completed a waethpood (woof thread) is passed across the carpet to separate the layers. The weavers use a panje (a comb like tool) to force the knots tightly into their place and for cutting the knots they use spiral blade known as Khur. Spacing is the lifeline of carpet weaving and if spacing goes wrong the carpet will come out as a defective piece. There are different types of knots and in Kashmir the Farsi Baff and the Persian system known as Sehna, or Sinneh, knot is usually used. Very simple tools are used and these include spiral blade called Khur, used to make a cut once the thread is knotted, a wood or a metal comb called Panja, to push the knots together. As the knotting proceeds, the carpet is rolled to the back of the loom. Once the carpet is completed the maval (the edge of the carpet) is closed and the carpet is ready to be sent for further processing. At this stage the carpet looks shabby and the design is only comprehensible from the back side.

Once the weaver completes the carpet, it is sent for further processing to washers who not only wash these carpets but also cuts the pile of knots in an even manner to give final finish to these carpets. Carpets are usually washed with mild chemicals which doesn’t alter the basic colour combinations. The edges of the carpet are then further reinforced with thread piping if needed and the carpet is now ready for the sale.